Vista Turbo (0-15mm Depth)
2 to 1 Epoxy Art Resin supplied in 1.5kg, 3kg, 7.5kg kits with 2 parts A and 1 part B
Perfect for making coating surfaces, coasters and thin pours
Fast Curing, UV Stable, Heat Resistant up to 90˚C and Manufactured in the UK
Low Odour, No VOC's, Solvent Free and Non-Flammable
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Vista Turbo is a 2 to 1 coating and thin pour resin, formulated for applications between 0 and 15mm depth. Turbo is a low viscosity (thickness) and is one of the fastest curing thin pour products along with Vista Rapids in the Vista range.
Epoxies cure from a heat reaction. The thinner the application the slower the reaction because the epoxy is unable to generate as much heat in a lower mass. So for thin applications like coatings it is important to use a fast-curing resin like Turbo that generates heat even at a low depth.
Experienced users of Vista Cascade have now turned to Vista Turbo because they can de-mould much faster due to the products high strength and fast curing nature. Some users record being able to de-mould in only 6 hours after pouring. Turbo also gives a high gloss, crystal clear finish with heat resistance up to 90˚C once it has reached it’s full cure in 14 days. Turbo benefits from easy degassing of bubbles when they are created.
It is important with any product for you to trial the resin before application on to project. Not all art resins behave the same. After trialling, you might realise that a different product within the range is more suitable, or that the techniques implemented with alternative resins may have to be adjusted for this particular product.
Turbo is a 2:1 mixing ratio by weight, which means for every 100g of Part A, you need 50g of Part B. For example:
200g Part A : 100g Part B
When measuring in a measuring cup by ml the ratio to follow is slightly different. For every 100ml of Part A, you need 60ml of Part B. For example:
200ml Part A: 120ml Part B
Go over to our Vista Resin Calculator which will do all the working out for you.
After measuring out the Resin and Hardener it’s now time to mix the two together. At least 3 minutes is required for mixing and it is good practice to transfer into a second cup for some further mixing. This way you can ensure there is no residual hardener unmixed which might be poured into your piece and cause a defect.
When all lines and imperfections have been removed you can be assured the epoxy is completely mixed. You can over mix and also mix too quickly causing excessive amounts of air to be introduced during this process. This can cause unwanted bubbles to form so be cautious of this.
The second the two components are mixed together a chemical reaction will begin. Often users decide that they will leave the mixed Resin into the cup for some time afterwards which creates a thicker Resin. When making a piece with several colours this can help to stabilise the colours and stop them from separating into each other. Again be careful and consider how much Resin is within the cup because this is within a small surface area meaning heat can not escape and the reaction will begin to increase rapidly. If left too long, you can lose workability with the Resin mixture all together often experiencing bubbling, excessive heat, distortion and even a flash cure! And remember, Turbo is made up with a high strength hardener you will not need to leave the mixed resin for a long period of time.
The curing time is dependent upon Total Heat. Total Heat = Heat of Reaction + Ambient Temperature. The Heat of Reaction is dependent upon the overall depth or mass of epoxy + curing properties of the Part B component.
For Turbo the Part B is fast curing therefore when added to a large mass and deeper than the recommended depth of 15mm the Resin mix will overheat rapidly. We recommend mixing small quantities.
The temperature of the room you are working/leaving your pieces to cure in does have a surprisingly big impact on the curing time. It isn’t a straight line between heat and cure time, so ass the temperature rises the pot life and cure time increases exponentially. And similarly, for a drop in temperatures the cure time will lengthen exponentially.
Adding heat in the form of a propagator, heat mat or other source of heat, you can expect curing times to reduce by up to 75% if you are concerned about cold temperatures. Typically Turbo used with the guideline parameters of 0-3mm, you can expect to de-mould in less than 8 hours.
For more information about how epoxy resins cure, please see our blog post 'Understanding How and Why Epoxy Casting Resins Cure'.
Working in Layers
To achieve greater depths Vista Turbo is suitable for layering. Throughout the curing process of your first layer the epoxy mixture passes into an initial cure phase when it begins to gel off. The epoxy is no longer workable and will progress from a tacky, gel consistency to the firmness of hard rubber, which you will dent with your thumbnail
Because the epoxy mixture is only partially cured, a new application of epoxy will still chemically link with it. It is at this stage you can successfully apply a second layer / pour / coating to an existing resin and create a monolithic bond. The next layer will be able to join without visible lines. Should the casting resin be allowed to reach full cure, we would recommend to mechanically prepare the surface of the bottom layer by sanding and then chemically clean using isopropyl alcohol.
Using with Pigments
When using our Vista Epoxy Pigments you can easily introduce some fantastic colours. And because the colour is already diluted into resin, the mixing process is quick and easy.
To create a translucent colour, simply add a small amount of colour and look by eye to ensure that the mixture is not going to turn opaque. For a full colour, it will depend on the depth of your application. A full colour at a significant depth is capable of being achieved with a small amount of pigment. For a very thin coating, you will need much more colour to ensure a fully opaque Resin mixture.
We would recommend to trial and sample get the right amount of colour saturation for your project. Each pigment is coloured naturally, and so you will find that a lot more pigment is needed for colours like orange than it is for black for example. For each colour you can trial and error until you know what to add by eye.
We know from experience it doesn’t take long to get used to the colours and they’re very easy to use.
As well as standard solid colours, we also have metallic colours – Metallic White, Metallic Bronze, Metallic Silver and Metallic Gold. In addition, we have a Metallic Boost which you can add to the solid colours to give them an injection of metallic. For a small change and hint of metallic, add around 25% to solid colour, for a strong metallic finish, we’d recommend to add up to 70%.
|Alternative Names||Coaster Resin, Art Resin, Craft resin, 2 to 1 Resin, 2-2-1 Resin|
|Size||1.5kg, 3kg or 7.5kg|
|UV Resistance / Stability||UV Stable (Absorbers, Interruptors & Brighteners included in Formulation)|
|Minimum Application Temp||18˚C (low temperatures will significantly elongate curing times)|
|Maximum Application Temp||22˚C (high temperatures can cause yellowing / excessive bubbles)|
|Curing Schedule Guide||Dependent on variable factors - temperature, depth, mixing time, mixing volume|
Why are you so cheap?
Answer: We don't like the word cheap, because the product isn't cheap! We give excellent value. Vista is manufactured using European raw materials only. We use the latest resin technology - HALS (Hindered Amine Light Stabilisers), Optical Brighteners, UV Inhibitors, and Odour Diffusers - all processed and manufactured at our factory in East Yorkshire, Beverley.
Where have you guys been?
Answer: Vuba has been manufacturing resin products since 2009. We began producing epoxy resin floor coatings for industrial and commercial markets. We then moved on to Resin Bound Surfacing - becoming one of the leader manufacturers worldwide. More recently we developed the Award Winning and Patented Easihold Stone Binder. And finally we decided to enter the Epoxy Art Resin market because we had all the equipment, technology and experience in house - and could see that the offerings available in the UK were mostly imported, 3rd party products with highly inflated prices. It was about time the UK had the opportunity to buy a UK manufactured product at a great price, with a responsive customer service team in place!
Do you recommend to use a heat gun or a torch?
Answer: For large items like trays and tables a heat gun can work well, but may cause resin to thin and move. A torch could be better in this scenario. For smaller moulds, a heat gun can be used. However, alcohol spray or light torching / candle lighter is also good to remove bubbles (do use not together). Avoid torching close to the mould, you can gently lift the bubbles from the sides with your stir stick or tooth pick .
How do I get rid of bubbles?
Answer: Bubbles can be removed with rubbing alcohol misted onto the surface, using a torch or lighter gently, or using a heat gun. Not letting bubbles into the mix is a good way to reduce the occurrence of bubbles. To do that you can warm the Part A prior to use. This will make the process of mixing easier and shorter, and so less bubbles will be brought into the mix. Bubbles from the edges are best to gently manually lift out to the surface to remove. Avoid damaging the mould.
The glitter is sinking, how can I stop this?
Answer: You can wait for the resin to thicken up during the curing process to a syrup consistency and then add glitter. Alternatively, add glitter, stir and allow to the resin to thicken while degassing from the glitter (leave stick in resin). Torch or spray the surface and slowly stir to lift the glitter when it’s the correct consistency then pour.
How do I stop colours mixing together?
Answer: This is about finding the right consistency. You’re looking for a syrup consistency maybe slightly thicker. (Avoid flash curing by separating into smaller amounts and checking regularly).
How do I separate Alcohol Inks without them blending?
Answer: Once resin is poured into the moulds leave some in your cup and wait. The waiting time depends on the consistency of the resin, the curing time of the resin and the temperature of the environment. As a general guide, that may be 30 minutes, 60 minutes or even more.
My Resin looks cloudy is this normal?
Answer: Epoxy resin can become crystallised after exposure to cold temperatures. The resin changes from a water clear, transparent liquid to a cloudy milky appearance. You can easily reverse this process by heating the resin in either hot water (still in it's container) or exposed to a blow heater, or even on a radiator.
Do I have to wear a mask?
Answer: We do recommend you wear PPE when using Vista Epoxy Resin. You can see our Safety Datasheets here and here. In addition, we have written a blog post about allergic reactions to epoxy resin, and how you can help prevent them.
How long do I stir the mix?
Answer: It is a balance between ensuring that the epoxy is sufficiently mixed, but to not put excess bubbles into the mix. Or in the case of deep pour resins, that you don't put excessive heat into the mix that could potentially cause the mixture to 'exotherm'. As a general guide you should mix for around 2 minutes. Thicker products like Coaty and Cascade will take longer to mix than thinner resins such as Ocean or Mariana. You should mix until you cannot see any lines / creases in the mixture which is unmixed Part B hardener.
Will it affect if it is a bit warmer in the room?
Answer: The warmer the temperature, the thinner the resin and faster the reaction (which will eventually thicken up the resin once it is mixed). So a warm room is recommended. Temperatures below 15oC will potentially cause amine blush and other undesirable surface defects. You can read our blog post here for other products you need to achieve a successful Vista Art Resin project!
What happens it I pour lower than the recommended depth?
Answer: Epoxy resins cure by a heat reaction. You can read more about how epoxy resins cure in our blog post here. Heat for the reaction comes from ambient temperature and heat from the reaction. At lower depths, the rate of reaction is less and so the mixture is slower curing. A resin meant for application at depths of more than 10mm like Vista Stream will cure very slowly at depths below 10mm. And the opposite is also true, a resin meant for thinner sections like Cascade will exotherm if poured at a deeper depth like 60mm.
Can I get rid of sticky patches?
Answer: Sticky patches are the result of either curing in very cold conditions, or excess bubbles created during the mixing process which have formed together and become sticky because they contain uncured resin. But there is a way to prevent this from happening and remove them if it does happen. Ensure your room is at least 15oC temperature where the epoxy resin is curing. And secondly, to remove micro bubbles simply pass over with a heat gun or torch which will remove the bubbles. You can also physically remove them using your mixing stick which works really well. You can see above more information about removing bubbles. But bubbles are either 1) curing in cold conditions or 2) the formation of micro bubbles.
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