Vista Cascade (10-25mm Depth)
Cascade is a medium viscosity water clear, heat resistant, epoxy art resin. Cascade is formulated for application between 10mm and 25mm in depth, at low volume, and for projects suited to a medium curing resin.
Rapids is part of the Vista range of Art Resins produced by Award Winning Manufacturer Vuba. If you are not already familiar with the product it is important for you to trial the resin before application on to projects.
Not all art resins behave the same. After trialling, you might realise that a different product within the range is more suitable, or that the techniques implemented with alternative resins may have to be adjusted for this particular product.
There are a significant amount of variables which will impact the performance of this product. Product temperature, ambient temperature, humidity, mixing time, volume mixed, application depth, additives used and the use of induced heat such as heat mats, propagators and heat guns.
Rapids is to be mixed 100 parts to 50 parts by weight, or '2 to 1'. 100g of Part A would be mixed with 50g of Part B. We would recommend to mix by weight for most accurate results. If mixing by volume, the ratio is 100ml of Part A to 60ml of Part B.
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The main determining factor in choosing an epoxy resin is the application depth and overall mix volume. Cascade is formulated for application at depths between 10mm and 25mm, and of low volume.
For application depths lower than 10mm we would recommend Vista Rapids, a higher viscosity heat resistant coating resin formulated for thin section pieces like bookmarks and canvass coating projects. Greater than 25mm and we would recommend Vista Lake.
At depts of less than 10mm Cascade will still function - but with elongated curing times. In excess of 25mm in depth and Cascade will begin to cure quite rapidly. Significantly in excess of 25mm, for example 30mm, you may seee overheating and the associated resultant bubbling and yellowing.
The Vista Forum, Instagram Page and Facebook Page will all provide additional help and info, and a platform for you to ask questions!
Why are you so cheap?
Answer: We don't like the word cheap, because the product isn't cheap! We give excellent value. Vista is manufactured using European raw materials only. We use the latest resin technology - HALS (Hindered Amine Light Stabilisers), Optical Brighteners, UV Inhibtors, and Odour Diffusers - all processed and manufactured at our factory in East Yorkshire, Beverley.
The reason why Vista Art Resin is between 30 and 40% cheaper than other products in the market is because we produce those products and we sell them to you directly. We do not import them from Europe or elsewhere; there is no 1, 2 or even 3 middlemen before sending the product to you.
Where have you guys been?
Answer: Vuba has been manufacturing resin products since 2009. We began producing epoxy resin floor coatings for industrial and commercial markets.
We then moved on to Resin Bound Surfacing - becoming one of the leader manufacturers worldwide. More recently we developed the Award Winning and Patented Easihold Stone Binder.
And finally we decided to enter the Epoxy Art Resin market because we had all the equipment, technology and experience in house - and could see that the offerings available in the UK were mostly imported, 3rd party products with highly inflated prices.
It was about time the UK had the opportunity to buy a UK manufactured product at a great price, with a responsive customer service team in place!
Do you recommend to use a heat gun or a torch?
Answer: For large items like trays and tables a heat gun can work well, but may cause resin to thin and move. A torch could be better in this scenario. For smaller moulds, a heat gun can be used. However, alcohol spray or light torching / candle lighter is also good to remove bubbles (do use not together). Avoid torching close to the mould, you can gently lift the bubbles from the sides with your stir stick or tooth pick .
How do I get rid of bubbles?
Answer: Bubbles can be removed with rubbing alcohol misted onto the surface, using a torch or lighter gently, or using a heat gun.
Not letting bubbles into the mix is a good way to reduce the occurrence of bubbles. To do that you can warm the Part A prior to use. This will make the process of mixing easier and shorter, and so less bubbles will be brought into the mix.
Bubbles from the edges are best to gently manually lift out to the surface to remove. Avoid damaging the mould.
The glitter is sinking, how can I stop this?
Answer: You can wait for the resin to thicken up during the curing process to a syrup consistency and then add glitter. Alternatively, add glitter, stir and allow to the resin to thicken while degassing from the glitter (leave stick in resin). Torch or spray the surface and slowly stir to lift the glitter when it’s the correct consistency then pour.
How do I stop colours mixing together?
Answer: This is about finding the right consistency. You’re looking for a syrup consistency maybe slightly thicker. (Avoid flash curing by separating into smaller amounts and checking regularly).
How do I separate Alcohol Inks without them blending?
Answer: Once resin is poured into the moulds leave some in your cup and wait. The waiting time depends on the consistency of the resin, the curing time of the resin and the temperature of the environment. As a general guide, that may be 30 minutes, 60 minutes or even more.
My Resin looks cloudy is this normal?
Answer: Epoxy resin can become crystallised after exposure to cold temperatures. The resin changes from a water clear, transprarent liquid to a cloudly milky appearance. You can easily reverse this process by heating the resin in either hot water (still in it's container) or exposed to a blow hear, or even on a radiator.
What is the difference between Cascade and Stream?
Answer: We have written a blog post about the difference between all of our epoxy casting resins. Please see the link here.
Do I have to wear a mask?
Answer: We do recommend you wear PPE when using Vista Epoxy Resin. You can see our Safety Datasheets here and here. In addition, we have written a blog post about allergic reactions to epoxy resin, and how you can help prevent them.
Is it 2:1 on the scales?
Answer: All of our Vista Resins are 100ml to 50ml by volume and 100g to 45g by weight, except for Vista Coaty which is 100g to 50g.
How long do I stir the mix?
Answer: It is a balance between ensuring that the epoxy is sufficiently mixed, but to not put excess bubbles into the mix. Or in the case of deep pour resins, that you don't put excessive heat into the mix that could potentially cause the mixture to 'exotherm'. As a general guide you should mix for around 2 minutes. Thicker products like Coaty and Cascade will take longer to mix than thinner resins such as Ocean or Mariana. You should mix until you cannot see any lines / creases in the mixture which is unmixed Part B hardener.
Is Vista vegan?
Answer: We have consulted suppliers associated with the raw materials and container, and they have confirmed that their products are vegan.
Will it affect if it is a bit warmer in the room?
Answer: The warmer the temperature, the thinner the resin and faster the reaction (which will eventually thicken up the resin once it is mixed). So a warm room is recommended. Temperatures below 15oC will potentially cause amine blush and other undesireable surface defects. You can read our blog post here for other products you need to achieve a successful Vista Art Resin project!
What happens it I pour lower than the recommended depth?
Answer: Epoxy resins cure by a heat reaction. You can read more about how epoxy resins cure in our blog post here. Heat for the reaction comes from ambient temperature and heat from the reaction. At lower depths, the rate of reaction is less and so the mixture is slower curing. A resin meant for application at depths of more than 10mm like Vista Stream will cure very slowly at depths below 10mm. And the opposite is also true, a resin meant for thinner sections like Cascade will exotherm if poured at a deeper depth like 60mm.
Can I get rid of sticky patches?
Answer: Sticky patches are the result of either curing in very cold conditions, or excess bubbles created during the mixing process which have formed together and become sticky because they contain uncured resin. But there is a way to prevent this from happening and remove them if it does happen. Ensure your room is at least 15oC temperaturew where the epoxy resin is curing. And secondly, to remove micro bubbles simply pass over with a heat gun or torch which will remove the bubbles. You can also physically remove them using your mixing stick which works really well. You can see above more information about removing bubbles. But bubbles are either 1) curing in cold conditions or 2) the formatino of micro bubbles.
Cascade is a 2:1 mixing ratio by volume. Which means for every 100ml of Part A, you need 50ml of Part B. By weight the ratio becomes 100:45 or 100g to 45g. For example:
200ml Part A : 100ml Part B
200g Part A : 90g Part B
Weigh or measure the exact ratio of resin and hardener into a container.
Using a suitable mixing stick begin to mix the resin and hardener together until combined completely. Each resin has a difference viscosity, and so the mixing times will differ. As a general guide, when all lines and imperfections have been removed you can be assured the epoxy is completely mixed.
It is good practice to transfer the mixed resin into a second, clean mixing container and undertake further mixing to ensure there is no residual hardener or uncured resin which might be poured into your piece.
It is important that excessive amounts of air are not introduced during the mixing process. Therefore, whether using a mixing stick or slow speed stirrer, take care to not fold air into the mix.
Once the two components are mixed together a chemical reaction will begin. You may wish to leave this chemical reaction to continue in your mixing cup to generate a thicker resin. Thicker resin will help to stabilise colours when adding to a piece. However, be aware that the longer the mixed resin is left in large mass, less surface area is available to dissipate heat and the reaction will begin to increase rapidly. If left too long, you can lose workability altogether of the resin mixture and experience excessive heat, distortion and bubbling.
For more information about how epoxy resins cure, please see our blog post 'Understanding How and Why Epoxy Casting Resins Cure'.
Pigments and Tints
Colour pigments used with epoxy resin are typically Solid Colour and Translucent Epoxy Colours; Alcohol Inks and Mica Powders.
Some pigments, especially when added in significant quantities can change the physical properties of your piece. High levels of mica powder addition may reduce heat resistance and increase flexibility of your make, for example.
When using differed pigments in one make it's important to understand the viscosity (thickness) of your resin. Coaty is a thick resin, Cascade is a medium level of viscosity (thickness) and we would describe Stream, Lake, Ocean and Mariana as low viscosity (thin) resins.
We would recommend to mix your resin, pour into seperate cups, make your colour addition and await an increase in viscosity to slightly less than honey before pouring into your make. This will prevent colours merging during the curing process.
Heat Mats and Heat Guns
Heat mats or propagators are excellent for reducing the curing time of epoxy resin. Epoxy resin cures from a heat reaction, and the more heat the faster the reaction. We radvise an intemdediary layer between the heat mat and your epoxy make to prevent resin burn.
Heat guns should be used to remove surface bubbles within the first 15 minutes of curing time. Bubbles, especially microbubbles can leave a sticky residue on the surface if left to form.
The curing time is dependent upon Total Heat. Total Heat = Heat of Reaction + Ambient Temperature.
The Heat of Reaction is dependent upon the overall depth or mass of epoxy + curing properties of the Part B component.
Cascade uses a fast curing Part B. And so, if there is a great mass for example a 50mm depth, the resultant mix will overheat rapidly. That is why Cascade is recommended for low depths such as between 5mm and 15mm in depth. And we would recommend mixing small quantities.
It is easier to control the curing time using ambient temperature. If Cascade is used within the guideline parameters of 5mm and 15mm, you can expect a de-mould time of 16 hours or less.
Should you wish to add heat in the form of a propagator, heat mat or other source of heat, you can expect curing times to reduce by up to 75%.
Commonly known as the Part B Stage, the epoxy mixture passes into an initial cure phase when it begins to gel off. The epoxy is no longer workable and will progress from a tacky, gel consistency to the firmness of hard rubber, which you will be dent with your thumbnail.
Because the epoxy mixture is only partially cured, a new application of epoxy will still chemically link with it. It is at this stage you can successfully apply a second layer / pour / coating to an existing resin and create a monolithic bond. The next layer will be able to join without visible lines.
Should the casting resin be allowed to reach full cure, we would recommend to mechanically prepare the surface of the bottom layer by sanding and then chemically clean using isopropyl alcohol.
|Alternative Names||Art Resin, Casting Resin, Epoxy Resin|
|Size||1.5kg, 3kg, 7.5kg|
|Country of Manufacture||United Kingdom|
|UV Resistance / Stability||UV Resistant (Absorbers, Interruptors & Brighteners included in Formulation)|
|Hardness (Shore D)||83|
|Gasoline/ Diesel Resistance||Chemical Resistant|
|Minimum Application Temp||15oC (Lower temperatures can cause Amine Blush)|
|Maximum Application Temp||25oC (Higher temperatures can cause an excessive heat reaction)|
|Recommended Thickness||10mm to 25mm - Low Volume|
|Curing Schedule Guide||Dependent on variable factors - temperature, depth, mixing time, mixing volume|
|Brand||Vista (Manufactured by Vuba)|
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